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I've just finished watching the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011 collection for the umpteenth time. "It was the perfect hybrid of skiwear and haute couture." Noted Tim Blankes of Style.com. I can't agree more. The prints on the garments were a little like being on a psychological trip, a lot of designers try and do that with clothes, but few succeed as well as Raf Simons did with this collection. Simons' inspiration was Louise Dahl-Wolfe's midcentury images of couture photographed in ski resorts; which resulted in a electric modern collection with what seemed like hints of a '30's silhouette. The best look of the show was the couture-esqu cocoon jacket paired with a sirup pants. It was an idea that was so twisted, so arcane--yet just as logical. The color palette was mostly of black and white, and hints of electric colors such as; blue, yellow, and green. I really loved the beautiful a-line jackets that seems to just fall away from the body. What I loved even more was that the models looked as though they loved wearing the clothes. I call that a very successful collection. I couldn't take my eyes off of the clothes, this collection was unquestioningly one of the best out of Milan; it was unquestioningly beautiful.
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After viewing well over 100 shows this season, I'd like to share my favorite shows and why they are my favorites. I usually favor the shows I feel are actually useful, clothes that I can actually imagine people wearing. I do enjoy the avant-garde shows immensely, the shows that are worth watching for the feeling you get, but what a good fashion journalist should look for in a collection, are the clothes that people will not only wear but will also flatter the persons figure, shape, and size.
Out of New York I loved Proenza Schouler. The designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's inspiration for this fall collection was Native American blankets. And all of the jacquards that was seen on their runway, was technology designed, meaning they used the computer to design all of the fabrics. The collection was genus at it's best, so balanced and so useful.
Giorgio Armani's collection in Milan was placed in a romantic setting. The models--smokey eyed and tousled hair--seemed as though they should have been conversing in a classy setting, smoking a cigarette; not walking a runway show. Giorgia Armani was my favorite out of Milan, the silehette of the garments were beautiful, and the way the flared cropped pants moved on the models were stunning. Armani was elemental this season, playing with a plush palette; soft pinks and beige, contrasting them with blacks and metallics. The collection was superb.
I used to favor Valentino, that was until Valentino himself retired in 2008. I've had my share of negative opinions of the new designers who have proceeded the couture house, but those seem to be changing. After Valentino's retirement, I felt like the clothes we're being forced to be beautiful, I also felt as though the Valentino aesthetic was changing. The new designers were trying to make the clothes something they weren't, and I didn't like that. But these past few seasons Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have been doing very well. It was their Fall Couture collection that I noticed the old Valentino aesthetic was coming back, it was starting to feel like home again. Paris was a wonderful week, full of one stunning collection after another. It was difficult to narrow it down to my favorite based out of Paris, but I had to side with Valentino. A very wonderful color palette of matte greens, purples, beige, and creams (though I would have liked to see some Valentino red). The clothes were perfectly tailored and cropped, and the hung magnetically on the models. Valentino hit it out of the fashion park.
By now, I am sure you are all well aware of the recent events, involving Christian Dior's Chief Designer, John Galliano. Galliano drunkenly made anti-semetic remarks to a couple in a Paris bar. The morning I read this in the New York Times, I was disgusted. I was disgusted by the fact that something so far from beautiful still existed in our world. Being proudly Jewish, the things that came out of Galliano's mouth, things like, "I love Hitler", and "You're mothers and forefathers would all be dead... gassed", made me realize that no matter what you do as a career; no matter how beautiful your craft is, you can still be an ugly person. It is vile and sad to think that Galliano carries those kinds of thoughts with him. My heart does go out to him, and I hope he seeks the help necessary for his well-being.
Also, I am very proud of the actions Dior took; they immediately suspended Galliano, investigated the matter further and eventually fired him. I am proud that, like most of celebrities today, he didn't just get a tap on the wrist, and made to give a fake apology for his actions. It shows that no matter how famous or well-known you are in your industry, you still must suffer the consequences of your own actions.
(Galliano Photos from the New York Times)
A few weeks ago in the early morning I checked my email, like I do every morning. But that particular morning I had an email from Matthew Reid, an illustrator based out of New York City. I really liked his illustrations, and Matthew offered to do an interview.
How did you become interested in Illustration?
My dream job was to be a cartoonist. I would get sick all the time as a child, and my mother would always get me comic books and "How to draw cartoon" books. I also didn't have too many friends as kid, so I had to rely on my imagination. I guess all that kind of built a strong foundation for me. As a teenager, skateboarding, graffiti and music were my life. They helped me through life's most confusing times. As I got older, my brain started acting crazy and drawing was the only thing that would keep me calm and sane. In so many words, art has always been a huge part of my life, as subtle as it may have been at times.
Where do you pull your inspiration from?
I am constantly inspired by everything I see and hear. Most of my work is pulled from some random and repressed memories, day dreams and dreamland, nature and my fears. I spent a good portion of my time exploring imaginary lands, so its only natural that I would document my experiences.
Did you go to school for illustration? If so, where?
I went to Marist College, in Poughkeepsie, NY for Fine Arts. The program was very small and isolated from the rest of the school, making seem more like a big family.
How were you experiences in school?
Honestly, it was amazing. I had two professors who changed my life , Ed Smith and Donise English. They allowed me to make my own mistakes, and were always there to help me pick up the pieces. They were incredibly supportive of everything I did.
During those years of my life, I reached some of the lowest points I have ever been at. Without my small, but very tight, group of friends and understanding professors, I would not be here today.
What is your favorite media?
Most of my work is ink and water colors. I still do murals and legal walls, so spray paint is also a favorite.
Do you work free-lance and for yourself or do you work for another company?
I work for myself as well as free-lance. In 2010 I had a wonderful opportunity to work with Click 3x, Discovery Channel and the X-Games on a skateboard auction to raise money for Oceana. I also did some work for the Spiderman Broadway play Turn off the Dark.
Where has some of your illustrations been featured?
I do group and solo shows all over the place, mostly New York and Philadelphia though. I also do murals and commissions. Currently, I am working on some top secret stuff, so check my website for random updates... 2011 is going to be a good year!
Anything else you wanted to add?
Follow me on twitter, I post a doodle everyday! @IAmMatthewReid
Also...
I honestly have the greatest and most supportive people in my life. My family and friends are constantly helping me up when I fall flat on my face. They know who they are and they know I love them all! I also want to thank everyone who comes out to meet me or emails me or anything else... I am so grateful and appreciative that my crappy artwork means something to you. And thank you Marcus for this interview!
For updates on Matthew's art and life, you can follow him on Twitter or visit his website.
The lace industry must be popping the champagne, because almost all of the collections I have seen so far has one way or another, incorporated lace into their garments. I've been reviewing collections religiously and so far the only conclusion I can come up with is that the harsh winter in New York City must have effected the mood of most of the designers. Everything on the runways have been rather bleak; mostly blacks and grays with pops of color here and there. A lot of wool, cottons, and leathers has been used, which is surprising to me because prices of these materials have skyrocketed these past few months, and it's obvious the designers themselves are being a little conservative by showing less looks on the runway. Richard Chia Love only showed 28.
Jason Wu really stuck out to me this season. Wu is a master of tailoring, and a master of elegant clothing. His fall collection is everything I like to see in a high fashion collection: gorgeous, wearable, and cohesive. He sought inspiration through Robert Polidori’s novel that documented the restoration of Versailles over a period of 25 years. The collection was remarkable. My favorite look was a gold embroidered gown show on the bottom right.
Also, if you haven't already I would advise you all to read this article in the New York Times by Cathy Horyn. It's on the new Editor in Chief of French Vogue, Emmanuelle Alt; I found it interesting.
[Click here to read]
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